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Food | The Guardian

Latest Food news, comment and analysis from the Guardian, the world's leading liberal voice

Best vegan restaurants in the UK: readers’ travel tips

Thu, 08 Nov 2018 06:30:05 GMT

With influences ranging from Van Gogh to Asia, these vegan venues serve up arty as well as delicious food – on beaches, buses … and in an underpass

Bundobust is fast becoming a Leeds institution for food lovers of all persuasions. Everything is veggie, and a large proportion of the menu is vegan, with an easy vegan sharing menu for two a great way in. From the okra fries dusted in black salt and mango powder (genius) to the chole dal and masala dosa, its south Indian street food, craft beer and Asian-inspired cocktails are a winning combo. With dishes from £4-6.50 it’s also easy on the wallet, so you can try a bit of everything.
bundobust.com
Laura King

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Kim Joy’s orange and stem ginger cat-themed mini-cakes

Wed, 17 Apr 2019 11:23:23 GMT

Feline groovy? Then you can bake these fun and simple iced cakes with ears and whiskers

These are simple, tasty and great fun to make. There will be some leftover candied orange, but you can use this to decorate other cakes, or just eat it (along with the leftover cake trimmings). Bonus!

Prep time: 10 min for cake, 15-20 min for candied orange, 10 min for buttercream, 5 min for icing, plus assembly/decorating time
Bake time: 20-30 min
Makes: 9

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Is it worth making your own ketchup?

Thu, 18 Apr 2019 07:00:19 GMT

Making a condiment takes for ever and requires a great deal of salt or sugar. Sometimes the results are delicious; sometimes they smell like death

The world of processed food falls into three categories: things that are always better when you make them yourself, but are a hassle (such as bread); things that are always better and no hassle (pancakes); and things you can never make as well as the shops make them (tomato ketchup and a particular kind of chocolate cake that we will discuss another day). The third set is the most confusing – exactly what can a factory do that I can’t? It was in this fog that I embarked on a homemade ketchup.

I wanted a recipe penned by someone with a vested interest in the homemade variety; someone whose livelihood depended on it. Reader, I ended up on ikea.com. Ikea sells chic ketchup bottles, which nobody would buy without this specific storage need.

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Nigel Slater’s new recipes for Easter

Mon, 15 Apr 2019 07:00:25 GMT

Catalan bubble and squeak, chicken, trout and lemon swiss roll are all on the menu for the holiday

Easter arrives and there is a definite change of step in this kitchen. The mood lightens, flavours are more gentle and the cooking becomes relaxed. Instead of a chicken stew thick with beans and herbs, the bird is simply roasted with tarragon and young potatoes barely bigger than a blackbird’s egg; the fish pies that have bolstered us all winter are replaced by pan-fried trout with a light, sharp cucumber sauce and baked potatoes are swapped for clouds of mash flecked with spring greens. On the pudding front, my reliable fruit cake is set aside for the lightness of a citrus sponge. Even the traditional baked cheesecake gets a spring makeover – the same ingredients but pressed between sheets of muslin instead of being baked and now used to fill tempting little tarts.

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Simon Hopkinson’s Easter feast

Sun, 14 Apr 2019 10:00:46 GMT

Mimosas with cheese and sesame puffs, pot-roast shoulder of lamb and pistachio tarts – Simon Hopkinson’s recipes to celebrate the year’s best feast

Having been asked, most cordially, by the editor to furnish you with an Easter luncheon menu, I then asked that I might further be allowed to talk you through my thoughts and musings regarding the recipes, the dishes, rather than to simply plonk them among you. Please read them carefully, leisurely, enjoyably and ponder more the cookery, rather than the regimen. Also, Easter remains my favourite feast of the year: it is the first one; springtime beckons; miraculous rejuvenation. From a sombre Friday to a Happy Holiday Monday, there is scope for all kinds of kitchenalia – and for four whole days! Christmas? Go figure.
All the recipes serve four

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10 great-value restaurants on Latin America’s 50 best list

Wed, 14 Nov 2018 06:30:09 GMT

From a Buenos Aires spot where greens rule to a ‘house of pig’ in São Paulo, our writer offers a personal selection of affordable restaurants on Latin America’s latest 50 best list

Elaborate tasting menus and fine dining dominate the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants list but it’s a different story with the Latin American edition of the awards. The top spot for 2018 did go to Lima’s Maido for the second year running (15-course menu £103), but further down the list there are plenty of restaurants offering great cooking at much more affordable prices. Here are 10 of the tastiest bargains around.

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How to eat: hot cross buns

Fri, 12 Apr 2019 10:00:47 GMT

This month, How to Eat is grilling hot cross buns. Do they need anything other than good butter? Is salted caramel a step too far? And how do we stop the hot cross bacon butty?

You may think the subject of this month’s How to Eat (HTE), the hot cross bun, is little more than a teacake with good PR. In fact, its decorative cross aside, this bun is both a subtly distinctive item (contains more sugar; always stickily glazed; uses ground spices to create its trademark speckling), and one of the most historically storied products in the baked goods aisle.

The human race has been baking bread to celebrate the spring equinox since time immemorial, and we were marking them with crosses long before Jesus was a lad. The pagan hordes of Rome and Athens were all big hot cross bun fans (kind of), while, down in Slough, the Saxons honoured their fertility goddess, Eostre (think about it), in an annual great, early British bake-off.

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Thomasina Miers’ recipe for yoghurt and turmeric lamb | The simple fix

Mon, 15 Apr 2019 11:00:19 GMT

Fragrant, exotic slow-cooked spiced lamb with crispy onion rice: it’s perfect for a crowd

Easter, like Christmas, can be a magical time of year, with two bank holidays giving a good chunk of time to relax and hang out with friends and family. But for the cook, this can be stressful, with so many different tastes to cater for. I serve this fragrant, exotic lamb with a pile of steaming rice, asparagus and crisp onions, with the same spicing as the lamb for vegans and vegetarians. It should keep everyone happy.

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Xier, W1: 'How I hope heaven will be’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent

Fri, 19 Apr 2019 09:00:10 GMT

A 10-course tasting menu of dreams, with a pudding selection for the afterlife

It is a badly kept secret among us coddled, gouty, 52-columns-a-year restaurant critics that we fear and avoid the lengthy, fine-dining tasting menu. No fact sends onlookers into more effervescent conniptions. But it’s not that we’re ungrateful for, say, our tiny amuse-bouches of blow-torched mallard lamella with a 12-hour Izumo Province nori reduction, or its delivery under cloche with all the rapidity of Julie Walters serving up two soups. No, it’s just that we have to do that kind of thing a lot, and it’s often done badly: too pompous, too many petals, too few carbs, not a lot of laughs.

But then, just as I’m questioning the entire point of modern haute cuisine, somewhere like Xier in Marylebone, central London, pops up and, like Michael Corleone in the Godfather, just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in again. Xier lives upstairs at chef Carlo Scotto’s new dual project on Thayer Street, not far from Oxford Street. Scotto trained under Angela Hartnett. Downstairs is a more casual affair named XR, with an elegant, modern European menu majoring in British produce: linguine with prawns, lamb sliders, pulled beef cheek and mango pavlova. But let’s respectfully ignore XR and focus instead on Xier, the entirely different beast breathing dreamily upstairs.

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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for pizza rustica | A kitchen in Rome

Mon, 08 Apr 2019 11:00:47 GMT

At this time of year in Rome, it’s traditional to pair the first broad beans with pecorino

Our rental agreement came with all the usual clauses, but also a verbal one: take care of the tortoise on the terrace. This unexpected role has brought me joy. I had no idea how fast a tortoise could move in the presence of watermelon, or that the movement would be a lolloping scamper. However, it has also caused great anxiety. At least once a day, I can’t find the tortoise (on our 5m x 5m terrace) or need to scare off a seagull with the wingspan of a lamp-post.

This anxiety peaked during hibernation, which began in early November and seemed never to end. And I’m clearly not the only one: start typing “tortoise hibernating” into Google, and before you hit the letter “o”, the words “or dead” appear. I spent the whole of February and half of March worrying that the tortoise, named Secret Agent by my son, was no longer with us in body, only shell. Then, one day, he strolled to the middle of the terrace, stopping to sunbathe as if nothing had happened. Relief was soon displaced by further anxiety when he showed no interest in eating, ignoring every leaf or slice of green apple.

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Return to Oz: the new generation of Australian wines

Sun, 14 Apr 2019 11:00:47 GMT

Irresistible, experimental but definitely grown-up, the new Australian wines that are well worth embracing

Like many people of my generation my relationship with Australian wine has been one of extremes. It started in my 20s with heady first love for sunshine-filled bottles that were, compared with their thin, mean European equivalents, startlingly fruity, generous and easy (and cheap) to drink.

Then, in my 30s, came the break-up. What was easy began to seem facile, fruity turned syrupy and generous became overbearing. I’d grown up, I thought, and all those identikit critter-labelled brands seemed to confirm the French idea that the Australians were not making wine so much as alcoholic fruit juice.

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Four Easter treat recipes from chocolatier Paul A Young | Four favourite recipes

Sat, 13 Apr 2019 06:00:16 GMT

Temptation in the form of hot-cross-bun-and-butter truffles, Easter egg cake, fondant egg brownie torte and vegan dark chocolate praline eggs

Prep 30 min
Chill 1 hr
Cook 20 min
Serves 8

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EartH Kitchen, London: ‘A hugely cheering meal’ – restaurant review

Sun, 31 Mar 2019 05:00:08 GMT

The restaurant of an events venue proves that great modern British cooking is as good as any show

EartH Kitchen, 11-1 7 Stoke Newington Road, London N16 8BH (020 3873 2345). Starters £5-£6.50. Mains £12.50-£16. Desserts £5-£7.50. Wines from £24

Let’s dispense with the preamble and get to it. A bowl arrives filled with watercress, all deep green leaf and stem, hung with fragile rings of lightly pickled shallot. Almost buried by the foliage are lumps of bronzed and golden debris. They appear deep fried, these misshapen pieces. It is vice and virtue clambering into bed and seeing what they can learn from each other. And so you dig in.

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How to make the perfect profiteroles | Felicity Cloake

Wed, 17 Apr 2019 11:00:08 GMT

Choux pastry is seen as difficult to master, but once you know the basics, it’s really not at all – which means there’s no reason not to revive this retro classic

The name of these small choux buns originally signifies a small gift – a description that does not fit well with the vast bowls of soggy, dairy-smeared pastry I remember from childhood, which is probably the last time I ate one. Profiteroles seemed to be everywhere in the 1980s: school speech days, family weddings, wakes … There was no occasion the choux did not fit and, reader, I hated them.

Fresh from the oven, however, they’re a quite different beast: light and airy shells, so soft inside that they almost melt on the tongue, filled with rich cream and served with warm, bittersweet chocolate sauce – well, who wouldn’t see them as a gift from heaven? Profiteroles are due a comeback. You read it here first.

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The truth about expired food: how best-before dates create a waste mountain

Wed, 17 Apr 2019 11:45:50 GMT

What happens if you ignore expiry dates altogether? One man did that for a year, without ill effects – but his approach is debatable

Would you eat a six-month-old yoghurt? This is a question you may have asked if you read the recent story about a US grocer and his year-long experiment eating expired food.

It started in October 2016, when Scott Nash, founder of the Mom’s Organic Market chain of grocery stores, wanted to make a smoothie. He likes his with yoghurt. As he was at his holiday cabin in Virginia, though, the only pot he had to hand was one he had inadvertently left behind on his last trip there, six months earlier. He opened it. No mould, no smell. He decided to take the plunge and dumped the yoghurt in the blender. “I drank and waited,” he wrote on his blog. And nothing happened.

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From lamb and aubergine koftas to mushroom bakes: Yotam Ottolenghi’s meatball recipes

Sat, 06 Apr 2019 08:30:45 GMT

Fresh, full of flavour and impossibly fluffy, these meatballs switch the ratio away from meat to vegetables

What makes a meatball a meatball? I struggle with the term because English, unlike some other languages, doesn’t have a satisfactory word for a veggie ‘meatball’. One definition, I suppose, is any kind of minced meat sphere that’s been bulked out with starch or vegetables to lighten things up and to add or absorb flavour. The solution would be to permit the word to cover instances where the ratio shifts away from meat, making balls that are almost dumpling-like: fresh, full of flavour and impossibly fluffy. And to let us still call them meatballs.

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David Pritchard obituary

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 16:51:26 GMT

Producer who achieved television success with the celebrity chefs Keith Floyd and Rick Stein

David Pritchard, who has died aged 73, was the producer-director who recognised the latent potential of Keith Floyd and Rick Stein to become two of Britain’s most popular and identifiable television chefs. His methods were unconventional – what might be called laissez-faire television – in that he worked without script, with a single hand-held camera, while allowing his presenters’ characters to emerge naturally as they grew into the medium.

The process was most marked with Floyd, never less than in his first outing, when he was filmed talking, drinking and cooking on a bucking trawler in the middle of the Channel in 1985. “This is probably the worst programme ever to come out of Plymouth” was the snap judgment of some of Pritchard’s colleagues as they watched, horrified, a somewhat drunk Floyd cooking up a monkfish tail for sceptical fishermen. But Pritchard knew, or hoped he knew, better, as he succeeded in promoting his work from local television to the BBC’s national network.

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From devilled eggs to chocolate bread: Yotam’s recipes for Easter feasting

Sat, 13 Apr 2019 08:30:14 GMT

A seasonal celebration with a glorious centrepiece of cinnamon rice with lamb and chicken

Spring is a jolly season, propelling us out of the winter blues and into longer days and shorter nights. This is why so many festivities occur around this time, from Nowruz in Iran and Passover for Jews to Easter, of course. Interestingly, all three cultures celebrate the egg in some way: a resurrection, a rebirth, an all-round cycle of life. I’m not a religious man, but I can still appreciate this, welcoming the sun and a full circle of the seasons as we feast – saving room, as always, for a chocolate egg for pudding.

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Anna Jones’ recipes for Easter pie and Portuguese custard tarts | The modern cook

Fri, 12 Apr 2019 11:00:53 GMT

Two seasonal dishes brought back from Easter trips abroad: a torta pasquale from Puglia and pasteis de nata from Portugal

A few years ago, I spent Easter in Puglia. Mornings were spent at the market, where the oranges were so fresh, the blossoms were still attached. There were early strawberries and stalls with towering piles of artichokes.

I love being away from home at learning about the food traditions of a different area. In Italy, there is a special sense of tradition: cakes and pastries made only at this time of year and shops selling nothing but Easter eggs. One Easter-only pie we ate was torta pasquale, packed full of greens and eggs. I saw it on many tables as we walked through the streets and it will grace my table this year. Another thing I have taken to making at Easter is pasteis de nata, or Portuguese custard tarts. They were apparently first made by the monks of Belém, who used the whites to starch their clothes and turned leftover yolks into these burnished, crisp-edged little wonders.

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Who says chardonnay can’t be cool?

Wed, 10 Apr 2019 17:00:06 GMT

For 25 years, the white wine has been unloved and unfashionable. But Bridget Jones’s favourite tipple is getting another chance

On a recent Saturday evening at All Time, a flourishing neighbourhood restaurant in east Los Angeles, the waiter was advocating a particular white wine available by the glass.

“I’m not going to tell you what it is, because then you won’t want it,” he said as he poured. “Just try it.”

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Anna Jones’ quick broccoli recipes | The Modern Cook

Fri, 19 Apr 2019 11:00:06 GMT

Broccoli loves to soak up flavours: try it in these recipes for kimchi fried rice, and a salty-sour ponzu broccoli and nut salad

If I had to call it, broccoli would be my favourite vegetable (or at least a dead heat with potatoes). The way they soak up flavour is unmatched by any other vegetable. At this time of year, I cook mostly with purple sprouting broccoli, as it’s tasty and affordable. I love normal calabrese broccoli just as much: I love it cut thinly and cooked with garlic, chilli and olive oil until it becomes buttery, then tossed through pasta. This week, as I often do in my kitchen, I’ve taken it down a soy and chilli route, with kimchi fried rice, and a sunny yuzu lime-dressed broccoli.

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Sabai Sabai, Birmingham: ‘It's for fans of M People’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent

Fri, 05 Apr 2019 09:00:38 GMT

This slightly gauche attempt at modern Thai dining may not live too long in the memory

Some lunches are literally, not figuratively, forgettable. Before I could deliver this sparkling prose on Sabai Sabai, for example, I had to retrieve the crumpled receipt from the bottom of my handbag as an aide-memoire: “£95.35 total without service,” it read.

So I had, in fact, definitely been there, for about 90 minutes one recent Saturday lunchtime. The receipt also revealed that I had tried several appetisers and main courses, pandan-flavoured pancakes for pudding and a martini. Still, my memories of the place are muted. Sabai Sabai is the fourth, and most ambitious, opening in an apparently award-winning chain of Thai restaurants in the Birmingham environs: Harborne, Moseley and, about 40 miles away, Stratford-upon-Avon. This latest opening is slap-bang in Birmingham central, and a quick scoot around its website and local media plaudits position it as breathtakingly glamorous, as well as apparently being an authentic taste of Thailand.

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Seveni Bar and Restaurant, London: ‘As boisterous inside as it looks outside’ – review | Jay Rayner

Sun, 07 Apr 2019 05:00:18 GMT

With its fantastical decor and smoking BBQs, dining at Seveni calls for a sense of adventure

Seveni Bar and Restaurant, 82 Kennington Road, London SE11 6NL (020 3795 9921). Skewers £1.40 - £5.50. Starters £5.50 - £7.50. Main dishes £8.80 -£18. BBQ minimum spend £35

I come across the restaurants I review in many different ways: through sniffing the smoke-cured air in city streets, or stopping hopefully in front of menus in windows; through clicking bravely on links fired at me in emails and scanning press releases for words of promise. I came across Seveni, opposite the Imperial War Museum in south London, because I drove past it at night and it looked bonkers. It occupies a one-storey, many-sided space at the bottom of a neo-brutalist tower block like some geological outcrop. Through the plateglass windows can be glimpsed a low ceiling hung with twinkling, white Club Tropicana fairy lights. A series of hoses of the sort Noo-Noo had for a nose in Teletubbies appear to dangle from the edges of the ceiling.

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Is there a failsafe way to poach eggs? | Kitchen aide

Fri, 12 Apr 2019 11:00:48 GMT

It can seem hit and miss, but with knowhow it’s possible to turn out the perfect poached egg every time

• Do you have a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian.com

Is there a failsafe way to poach eggs?
Charlotte, south London

While an egg poacher may seem the obvious solution, I’m #teamDelia where that particular gadget is concerned. As the nation’s cooking teacher proclaims on her website, poachers don’t work, because they “steam and toughen the eggs”, rather than poach them. (She adds that they’re “hell” to clean, too, but that’s another story.)

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A glorious shambles: why Celebrity Bake Off now beats the original

Wed, 06 Mar 2019 09:56:02 GMT

Russell Brand made a biscuit vagina, and John Lithgow crafted a lumpy gingerbread Churchill – comic ineptitude that trumps GBBO’s self-seriousness any day

In the opening episode of Celebrity Bake Off last night, John Lithgow baked a 3D biscuit scene of himself as Winston Churchill in The Crown. The showstopper challenge was to bake something based on a performance they were proud of, and Lithgow said portraying Churchill was “the best time I’ve ever had acting”.

There’s something immensely pleasing about this. It may be the relentless positivity of Lithgow himself (who later did a splendid Yoda impersonation), or the fact that he depicted a drama that apparently set Netflix back £100m in gingerbread ingredients that can’t have cost more than £20. “Look at poor Winston,” he wailed as he took Churchill out of the oven. “He’s all lumpy.”

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Silky, fresh and succulent Riojas

Sun, 14 Apr 2019 05:00:40 GMT

The region is respected for its traditional ways, but some modernists are at work, too

La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2009 (£29.08, Armit Wines) Rioja is a region with a reputation for sticking to traditions. In the popular imagination it is a place where the oak barrel rules. It’s dusty old bodegas stuffed to the gunnels with row after row of barricas, stacked like honeycomb, and filled with wines that taste of coconut and vanilla. This is the classic flavour imparted by years of ageing in American, as opposed to French, oak. In the wrong hands, this can lead to rather tired and joyless red wines – all mouth-drying oak and no fruit. But there are wineries, such as the consistently superb La Rioja Alta, where the mix of well-tended fruit and long, carefully monitored oak- and bottle-ageing makes for the uniquely savoury, leathery flavours and silky, soft texture found in wines such as Ardanza.

Miguel Merino Vitola Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2012 (£27.95, Davy’s Wine Merchants) If wineries such as La Rioja Alta and neighbour López de Heredia – both based in the nerve centre of Rioja, the Barrio de la Estación in Haro – are committed to winemaking ways that are in many respects unchanged since the late 19th century, the rest of the region has become much more diverse. After years of squabbling between self-styled modernists (who generally favoured shorter ageing in new French oak barrels) and traditionalists, the region as a whole has come to focus on the quality of the fruit and location of the vineyards. This was always the philosophy at the small, family-run bodega Miguel Merino, with wines such as the deep but finely balanced red Vitola showing off the distinctive lift and freshness of their vineyards in the beautiful village of Briones.

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What’s the best way to store cheese? | Kitchen Aide

Fri, 19 Apr 2019 11:00:07 GMT

A plastic box with a lid will keep wrapped cheese for as long as you need to eat it – but there’s also a neat trick using sugar lumps

• Do you have a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian.com

How can I prevent cheese from going mouldy or hard so quickly? How come it can spend years in a cave, but won’t last for much more than a week in my fridge?

Simon, London SW16

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Georgia on my plate: a culinary journey in the Caucasus

Sun, 09 Dec 2018 11:00:14 GMT

No lesson in the complex art of Georgian cuisine is complete without a toast or two, says our writer on a tour of the country’s mountains and cities
Suzanne Moore in ‘mind-blowingly gorgeous Georgia’

“This is a crazy Georgian situation,” says Ketino Sujashvili, with a hint of theatrical relish, as a dozen different crises flare up in her kitchen all at once.

I’ve just arrived at Ketino’s guesthouse in Kazbegi, northern Georgia, for an informal cooking class – the plan is to make khinkali, the soupy minced-meat dumplings prized in this spectacular region of the High Caucasus mountains. It begins smoothly enough, with the women in Ketino’s kitchen creating a space for me at their table, clearly amused by this lanky Irishman eager to learn the secrets of Georgian cuisine.

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Nigel Slater’s cheese and bacon buns and candied peel loaf recipes

Sun, 14 Apr 2019 04:59:41 GMT

Savoury and sweet treats using softer, stickier doughs

I have under-proved doughs and over-proved them. Forgotten some and started baking others well before they were ready. In one case I let an over-enthusiastic batch spill over the side of the bowl and swell across the kitchen counter like an alien. But my main fault has always been making a dough too tight, one without enough liquid and that struggled to rise. I guess I needed to be in control.

I have recently started making softer doughs, using a little more water and getting a better rise and a softer texture

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Prue Leith: ‘I once thought I’d stabbed a chef in the manhood’

Sat, 13 Apr 2019 16:00:24 GMT

The Bake Off judge on working for sexist chefs, learning to love oysters and what she’ll be eating for her 80th birthday

My first taste memory is of our nanny in South Africa making white bread sandwiches with salad cream, which was potato mashed with a cheap mayonnaise thing with bits in it of – I suppose – pickled cucumber. I absolutely loved them. And on the beach, she would butter Marie biscuits on the flat side and sprinkle hundreds and thousands on them, one by one from the packet, until it was empty. I was always concerned how the packet would divide up among the people present. I’d feel extremely anxious that I’d have the extra one at the end; at least that I got as many as everyone else. I was very greedy. My brother calls me “Mersey Mouth”, referring to the Mersey Tunnel I suppose, which is huge and unreliable.

Aunt Kitty shot the milkman. My uncle Alan, Kitty’s husband, was headmaster at a very good state school but had a very dotty, scatty wife. Kitty was very beautiful but would have driven you mad, frankly. Anyway, she woke up one night and saw someone walking near the French windows at the bottom of the bed and she took her husband’s gun from the bedside drawer and there was the sound of gunfire, shattering of glass and the yelling of the poor milkman, who was just delivering. When Uncle Alan, beside her, woke up to all this noise, and asked why she hadn’t told him about a possible burglar, she replied: “I didn’t want to wake you.”

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Nigel Slater’s grilled plaice and creamed broccoli recipe

Tue, 16 Apr 2019 11:00:50 GMT

Tender fillets of fish meet comforting creamy cheesy veg

Trim the dark green florets from a 500g broccoli and set aside. Thinly slice the stalks then sauté them in 30g of butter for 3 or 4 minutes until bright and translucent, then add the florets and continue cooking for 3 or 4 minutes until they are tender. Add salt and pepper and 250ml of double cream and bring to the boil.

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Kim-Joy’s spiced apple turtle pies

Thu, 11 Apr 2019 06:00:15 GMT

Who doesn’t love apple pie? And this puff pastry design will bring any guest out of their shell

If you love apple pie and you love turtles, you will turtally love these individual pies. They are made with rough puff pastry to speed things up (but still so flaky and buttery!). You can use shop-bought puff pastry if in a rush, but the rough puff pastry is so worth it. The key is to keep it cool. To make them vegan, you can use shop-bought vegan puff pastry, agave nectar instead of honey, dairy-free spread instead of butter and soy milk instead of egg wash.

Prep time: 15 mins for pastry, 30 mins to fill, 30 mins to shape

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What to do with a surfeit of egg whites – chocolate mousse, anyone? | Waste not

Sat, 13 Apr 2019 05:00:18 GMT

Many recipes ask for egg yolks, so the whites end up in meringues, but there are other delicious uses for them, from sorbets and mousses to cocktails

Recipes often call for one part of an egg, leaving the other equally valuable and nutritious part without a use. This is a common issue in restaurants, and can lead to huge amounts of waste if a kitchen doesn’t come up with a rescue recipe. But it needn’t be a problem: thankfully, there are as many lip-smacking ways to use the white albumen as there are the rich, yellow yolk, so you just need to plan to cook both.

This week, I’ll be looking at egg whites, and next week yolks. Whites can be whipped up into meringues, mixed into sorbets, turned into luscious cocktails, aerated to make the lightest mousse … I could go on.

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Taste test: the high street's doughnuts, scones and muffins

Sun, 24 Feb 2019 11:00:22 GMT

Bake Off alumnus Liam Charles on honeycomb patterns in croissants (good) and luminous custard (bad)

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Cocktail of the week: Walk, Don’t Walk | The good mixer

Fri, 05 Apr 2019 15:00:07 GMT

Get the tastebuds zinging with the Ace Hotel’s white vermouth, basil and lemon creation

This refreshingly zingy number makes more than a passing nod both to warmer spring days and to vermouth, which is having a bit of a moment right now.

Serves 1
20ml good-quality white vermouth – I use Martini Riserva Speciale Ambrato
1½ tsp strawberry jam
10ml lemon juice
10ml sugar syrup (made with 1 part caster sugar to 1 part water)
2 basil leaves, plus 1 extra leaf, to garnish
75ml prosecco

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The Fishmarket, Edinburgh: ‘Seafood cookery of the first order’ – restaurant review

Sun, 14 Apr 2019 04:59:39 GMT

This new place down on the docks comes highly recommended, the chefs are expert, the fish impeccably sourced. Only one thing is wrong…

The Fishmarket, 23A Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh EH6 4LP (0131 552 8262). Starters £7-£11. Mains £7-£36 (the latter for a whole lobster). Desserts £5. Wines from £17

There is, in my head, an alternative geography of Britain. It’s not built around the triumphalism of grand museums or cathedrals, but something much more encouraging: the places that have fed me well. If I imagine myself in York, I’m at a table in Skosh, spooning away at an egg filled with whipped egg whites and cream and toasted cheddar and a mushroom duxelles. In Manchester, I want to be at Albert’s Schloss, with the slow-roasted pork knuckle and the drag queens, probably in that order. In Gateshead, I want to be at Träkol, sucking the black-bean sauce off the sweetest of clams. The mental map is marked out in trails of knives and forks leading to plates piled with good taste.

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How to make simnel cake | Felicity Cloake’s masterclass

Wed, 10 Apr 2019 11:00:47 GMT

The traditional Easter cake, with saffron and citrus peel and topped with marzipan, is the very essence of spring

Simnel cake is that rare thing – an Easter treat that doesn’t contain even a whiff of chocolate. Instead, this richly-fruited confection is topped with sweet, nutty marzipan, making it perfectly suited to end the traditional Lenten fast. Lighter and fluffier than Christmas cake, with golden saffron and zesty citrus peel, it’s the very essence of spring.

Prep 25 min
Cook 2 hr 35 min
Serves 8

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Cocktail of the week: the Alcazar | The Good Mixer

Fri, 19 Apr 2019 15:00:08 GMT

Think manhattan, but with a Spanish flavour and a velvety, nutty finish

This is our take on a manhattan, using ingredients from Jerez in Spain. The technique of “washing” a spirit in beurre noisette gives a beautiful, velvety, nutty finish, but you can also make this with straight brandy.

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Mollie’s, Oxfordshire: ‘Happy Eater meets the Crossroads motel’ – restaurant review

Fri, 12 Apr 2019 09:00:47 GMT

The latest venture from the Soho House group is an American-style diner with rooms, on the A420 near Swindon – yes, it’s all a bit weird

Mollie’s Motel & Diner on the A420 is a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside a soft, sweet burger bun. Why has Soho House opened a Happy Eater-meets-Crossroads motel 16 miles from Swindon, between Littleworth and Kingston Bagpuize? Are the beautiful people secretly drawn there? Are they lured by limestone, the only interesting thing that’s occurred in this postcode since the late Jurassic epoch? And what terrifying debt of honour did Declan Donnelly owe owner Nick Jones that he made the trip to Mollie’s for the opening party?

These questions and more have been on my lips since this attractive, 1950s Americana-themed building opened its doors in February, offering a short, fuss-free menu of burgers, loaded nachos, crinkle-cut fries and trays of rotisserie chicken. At breakfast, there are bacon baps and hash browns. There are fancy ketchups on the tables, Cowshed products in the bathrooms, a DJ playing quietly of a Saturday night and, like most things Jones chucks his weight behind, there is clearly a method in this madness.

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What to drink with Easter eggs and Easter roasts | Fiona Beckett on wine

Fri, 12 Apr 2019 13:00:50 GMT

Three wines, and one gin, to enjoy over Easter weekend

The fact that Easter is late this year is definitely a bonus in wine terms. Although you can’t entirely rule out the possibility that it will be snowing next weekend, the ingredients in the shops – asparagus, salad greens, even strawberries – have emphatically moved on from winter to spring.

Even if you’re going for a classic Sunday roast, it’s time for lighter wines, even more so if you serve your chicken or lamb with yoghurt, as both Yotam and Tommi suggest this week. Personally, I’d go for cabernet franc from the Loire, which has a tart, almost stalky quality, like crushed mulberries, leaves, stalks and all. Yapp Brothers have two delicious ones: a saumur from Domaine Filliatreau and an exuberant, juicy, almost beaujolais-esque L’Arpenty Chinon 2018 (£14.75, 12.5%) from Francis and Françoise Desbourdes.

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Cocktail of the week: Provisioners' calvados sour | The good mixer

Fri, 12 Apr 2019 15:00:07 GMT

An apple-based drink infused with cloves, citrus and vanilla – a perfect balance of spice and zing

This apple-based drink with clove, citrus and vanilla undertones is just the thing to ease you into Easter weekend.

Serves 1
40ml clove-infused calvados – see method
20ml Mandarine Napoléon – this mandarine liqueur is widely available, but if you can’t get it, useGrand Marnier or Cointreau
10ml vanilla syrup (made with 2 parts sugar to 1 part water and 2 split vanilla pods)
1 egg white
2 dashes orange bitters – or use a little orange zest
1 wafer-thin apple slice, to garnish

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